I hate doing my nails. I can’t preserve my palms nonetheless for the 5 minutes or so it takes nail polish to dry and it inevitably will get chipped. If, for some sort of miracle, my manicure survives the primary 10 minutes, it nonetheless chips like loopy after a few days. I’m that tough on my nails… Oh, why can’t somebody give you a nail polish that’s each chip-free, final for weeks, and has zero dry time? What, it exists you say? Oh, you’re speaking about Shellac.
I learn about it. I can’t stroll previous a nail salon that doesn’t promote the remedy on its home windows right here in London. However I can’t – no I gained’t – use it. I really like my nails greater than I really like an ideal manicure. Shellac could sounds just like the miracle reply to each nail polish fanatic’s troubles. However it’s an angel in disguise. Fact is, it causes extra issues than it solves. Right here’s why:
What’s Shellac?
I used to consider Shellac was a cutting-edge expertise made in a lab by some nail fanatic, however nope. It’s derived from the waterproof resin the lac scale insect produces for cover.
It’s not simply utilized in nail polish, both. You could find it in furnishings end and prescription drugs, and is even used within the meals trade! So, even for those who’ve by no means tried a Shellac manicure, chances are high you’ve used shellac in some unspecified time in the future in your life. Most likely nonetheless are.
Within the meals world, shellac is what offers your jelly beans and chocolate-coated nuts that shiny, virtually plastic-like sheen. So sure, your nails and your sweets may need extra in frequent than you assume.
How Does Shellac Work?
Shellac nail polish, branded and made well-known by CND, requires a selected utility course of. Step one is a base coat cured underneath a UV lamp for about 10 seconds. Then, the primary layer of nail polish is utilized, and cured underneath the lamp for two extra minutes.
Similar for the second layer. It’s adopted by a prime coat that, once more, have to be cured underneath the lamp for a few minutes to seal the polish. To finish the manicure, you spray isopropyl alcohol on every nail. This removes the movie on their floor, leaving your nails additional clean and tremendous shiny.
A part of the rationale Shellac feels so totally different from conventional nail polish is that this curing course of. It hardens every layer into place, so the polish isn’t simply sitting on prime of your nail. It’s bonded to it. That’s nice for longevity, however not nice when it’s time to take it off.
Why Is This Dangerous For Nails?
If you happen to’re a daily reader right here, you’ve already discovered what’s improper with the appliance course of. Yep, the UV ray lamp. It’s true that utilizing this lamp causes lots much less damage than driving in the sun with out gloves does (and who wears gloves to drive?), however that’s not a great excuse to reveal your nails to much more UV rays.
UV harm is cumulative. You need to do every part in your energy to cut back it to absolutely the minimal with out compromising the standard of your life (who desires to remain trapped at residence on a sunny day?). A few of chances are you’ll argue that, for you, the comfort of Shellac is well worth the little additional harm UV rays trigger. Honest sufficient. However there’s one other means through which Shellac harms nails. I’m speaking in regards to the removing course of.
How Do You Take away Shellac?
Like all nail polishes, you take away Shellac with acetone. However the course of is a bit totally different. CND created a removing wrap. You saturate it in pure acetone, wrap it round every nail, and wait 10 lengthy minutes earlier than taking it off. This offers the acetone sufficient time to get by way of every layer of the Shellac manicure and take away all of them.
Professional tip: most salons will even tough up the floor of the polish with a file earlier than soaking. That helps the acetone penetrate, however it additionally weakens the floor of your precise nail within the course of. Double harm.
What’s Unsuitable With The Shellac Elimination Course of?
If you happen to’ve ever used nail polish, how unhealthy acetone is in your nails. It weakens nails, making them turn out to be dry and brittle. It could possibly additionally irritate and dry out pores and skin. Within the worst circumstances, it causes cracks and bleeding. In small quantities, acetone will not be that dangerous. It could dry your palms and nails a bit however, for those who take correct care of them, its unintended effects aren’t that unhealthy.
However soaking your nails in acetone for 10 minutes? That’s asking for hassle. A 2012 study has found that gel manicures like Shellac cause significant brittleness, weakness, and thinning. After the manicure, the nails of one of many topics have been 50% thinner!
The research didn’t make clear if this was as a result of acetone alone, to some chemical within the nail polish, or each, however why take the danger? Regardless of the trigger, Shellac manicure does trigger harm to your pure nails. That’s sufficient for me to stay to common nail polishes.
Let’s be sincere: nails don’t bounce again in a single day. If you happen to harm your pure nail mattress, it could possibly take 3-6 months (or extra!) for it to completely develop out. That’s a very long time to take care of peeling, breaking, and dull-looking nails – all due to a manicure that lasted three weeks.
What’s The Distinction Between Shellac And Gel?
Folks throw round “gel” and “Shellac” like they’re the identical factor, however they’re not. Shellac is extra of a half-gel, half-regular polish hybrid. It feels thinner, appears extra pure, and it’s not fairly as brutal to take away as full-on exhausting gel. However let’s not child ourselves. Each nonetheless want UV lamps. Each nonetheless want soaking in acetone. So for those who’re hoping Shellac is the lovable, non-damaging little sister of gel… yeah, probably not. It is perhaps barely much less aggressive, however your nails are nonetheless getting hit.
What If You Solely Get It Now and Then?
Look, for those who’re doing Shellac a couple of times a yr, your nails will in all probability survive. However be sincere: does anybody cease at a couple of times? It’s addictive. It lasts eternally, it appears wonderful, and abruptly you’re reserving your subsequent appointment earlier than the outdated one’s even chipped. That’s when the harm builds up. One turns into ten, and now your nails are peeling, splitting, and paper-thin. If you happen to’re gonna do it, not less than buffer your nails with some oil first and provides them an actual break after. And no, three days off doesn’t rely.
What Can You Use As a substitute (That Received’t Wreck Your Nails)?
You’ve bought choices, and no, they’re not all terrible. A few of these long-wear polishes like Essie Gel Couture or Sally Hansen Miracle Gel really do a good job. No UV lamp. No acetone wraps. Simply apply, air dry, prime coat, executed. They gained’t final three weeks, however you’ll get a strong week or so for those who’re not clawing by way of gravel. Or throw on a strengthening base coat underneath common polish and reapply your prime coat each few days. It’s decrease upkeep than coping with cracked, dehydrated nail beds, belief me.
The Backside Line
Shellac manicures are so handy! They’re chip-free, have zero dry time, and last as long as three weeks. However each the appliance and removing course of trigger harm to your pure nails. If you happen to ask me, the tradeoff merely isn’t value it.
About Gio
Hello, I am Gio. I am a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is pores and skin coach and author on a mission that will help you obtain your greatest pores and skin day ever – day-after-day. I bust skincare myths and debunk advertising jargon that will help you work out what’s well worth the splurge and what’s greatest left on the shelf – utilizing science, not hype. I additionally provide skincare consultations that will help you create the very best skincare routine in your distinctive wants.
