I feel I gave you the flawed impression. I’m a skincare geek with a magnificence weblog. That type of means I attempt each lotion and potion underneath the solar, have a ten step skincare routine, and go for facials each different week. This couldn’t be farther from the reality.
I’m very selective of the skincare merchandise I exploit. My skincare routine rarely features more than 4 steps. And facials are a uncommon deal with earlier than an important day. As a result of, as a lot as I like skincare, I feel we’re overdoing it. Pores and skin wants tender loving care. The extra stuff you do to it, the upper the prospect you’ll upset it.
Positive, there are occasions when you must convey within the massive weapons. However I see so many ladies with nice pores and skin who go to excessive lengths to forestall solar injury when merely sporting sunscreen would do. Or girls who’re OCD with cleaning after which complain their pores and skin is dry as sandpaper. The reality is, even the most effective skincare remedies can spoil your pores and skin in case you abuse them. Listed here are the worst culprits:
1. Chemical Peels
Chemical peels are exfoliating remedies on steroids. They use acids, like glycolic and lactic, to take away the highest layers of your pores and skin, that are tarnished by darkish spots, wrinkles and different imperfections. With out them, pores and skin seems to be extra even-toned, smoother and brighter.
Not all peels are created equal. There are superficial peels (like 20% glycolic), medium-depth peels (like TCA 25%), and deep peels (phenol). The stronger the peel, the extra dramatic the outcomes, but additionally the upper the dangers.
A superficial peel can refresh your complexion with minimal downtime, whereas a deep peel can actually go away you peeling for weeks. Most dermatologists received’t even do deep peels anymore as a result of laser resurfacing is safer and simpler to manage. So in case you’re curious, know the place the road is between a gentle refresh and a medical-grade therapy.
Peels are nice from time to time. If darkish spots are beginning to make an unpleasant look in your face, I’d go so far as to say they’re a should. Beneath medical supervision. Don’t even attempt to purchase a kind of 50% glycolic acid peels you’ll find on Amazon or Ebay. These are harmful and the individuals promoting them utterly irresponsible.
Watch out for facials, too. Today, chemical peels are sometimes components of facials. Earlier than a giant event, that’s cool. However in case you go for a facial each few weeks, you’ll quickly end up with paper-thin pores and skin. Let me clarify.
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THE DANGERS OF ABUSING CHEMICAL PEELS
One delusion floating round is that “the extra it burns, the higher it really works.” Completely false. That burning sensation isn’t proof that the peel is efficient. It’s proof your pores and skin is in misery. Ache just isn’t progress. A well-done peel tingles or stings frivolously, however ought to by no means really feel like your face is on fireplace. If it does, that’s not magnificence. It’s injury.
Right here’s the deal. These useless cells on the floor of your pores and skin are there for a motive. Their job is to guard the brand new and uncooked pores and skin beneath that’s not prepared to return to the floor but. Take away one layer too many and your pores and skin will turn out to be all crimson and infected. It’ll damage like hell, too. For weeks, if not months. This type of injury heals SLOWLY.
However you don’t have to go that far deep to do some critical injury. If you happen to go for a peel each month, you by no means give your pores and skin the time it must heal itself and recompose these layers of useless pores and skin. The outcome? Your pores and skin turns into so skinny, it’s virtually clear. You possibly can truly see what’s underneath it.
There’s worse. Your pores and skin is your first barrier in opposition to the surface world. Towards unhealthy climate, germs and all that stuff that may damage you. When pores and skin is so skinny, you’re virtually left unprotected. And don’t get me began on solar injury. It’s no secret peels enhance pores and skin’s sensitivity to the solar. When your pores and skin is that skinny, solar injury is a executed deal. After which, you’ll must have extra peels to do away with the darkish spots and wrinkles that causes. It’s a vicious circle.
WHAT TO DO INSTEAD
You possibly can nonetheless have a peel executed from time to time. I’ve a gentle glycolic acid peel executed two or 3 times a yr. If I had darkish spots, I could have them executed a bit extra typically, if my physician agreed that’s a good suggestion. My level is, don’t have chemical peels executed for the sake of it. If you wish to forestall untimely growing old, there are higher methods to do it.
Associated: TCA Peel VS Glycolic Peel: Which One Is Better For You?
2. Overexfoliation
That is associated to chemical peels, so I’ll be transient. Chemical peels are the quickest method to take away sufficient layers of useless cells to trigger some critical injury. However, something you employ to exfoliate your pores and skin can do the injury if used too typically. That features milder concentrations of lactic and glycolic acid, scrubs, sonic cleansers, microdermabrasion… Moderately, they provide you brighter, smoother, even-toned pores and skin. In extra…
THE DANGER OF OVEREXFOLIATION
Once more, it exposes uncooked pores and skin, which is ugly and painful. And it makes pores and skin extra susceptible to irritations and solar injury. In case your pores and skin feels tight and glossy, not clean and tender, that’s a crimson flag. If moisturizer stings once you put it on, additionally a crimson flag. Breakouts that look extra like tiny crimson bumps than clogged pores? Yep, overexfoliation. It’s simple to mistake this for “purging” however the actuality is, your pores and skin barrier is simply pissed off.
WHAT TO DO INSTEAD
Exfoliate carefully. Some specialists say you may exfoliate each day in case you’re mild sufficient however I’m not a giant fan of that. What I like to recommend is between one and 4 occasions per week, relying in your pores and skin kind:
- Dry: Twice
- Oily/combo: Three or 4
- Delicate: As soon as
And don’t stack your actives. If you happen to’re utilizing a retinoid at night time, perhaps skip the acid that day. If you happen to’ve had a peel in-clinic, lay off the scrubs and acids for at the least per week. Your pores and skin solely has a lot resilience, and the quickest method to wreck it’s to pile on each shiny product development without delay.
Associated: What’s The Best Exfoliator For Your Skin Type & How Often Should You Do It?
3. Scrubs
Okay, okay, you bought that exfoliation may be harmful enterprise if executed too typically. However, scrubs do deserve a particular point out. As a result of they’re unhealthy. Interval. So, what’s a scrub? Something that makes use of small particles to exfoliate and manually take away useless cells from the floor of your pores and skin. For instance, apricot kernels or walnut shells.
Associated: Physical Vs Chemical Exfoliation: Which One Is Right For You?
THE DANGER OF USING SCRUBS
The largest advertising trick right here is slapping the phrase “pure” on the label. Simply because it’s produced from apricot kernels doesn’t imply it’s mild. Poison ivy is pure too, and also you wouldn’t rub that in your face. At all times bear in mind: pure doesn’t equal secure.
These little pure exfoliating particles (particularly from apricot kernels) typically have ragged and jarred edges that may scratch and tear the pores and skin. That’s not good. Particularly when germs and micro organism use them to search out their method inside your physique. Want I say extra?
P.S. Have you ever heard? St Ives is being sued for its famous apricot scrub for this very reason!
WHAT TO DO INSTEAD
Use a gentler exfoliant. Acids could have their drawbacks, however they’re nonetheless safer than scrubs. Query is, which one do you have to use? That is dependent upon your pores and skin kind, too:
- Dry pores and skin: Glycolic acid. It exfoliates and hydrates pores and skin on the identical time.
- Oily pores and skin: Salicylic acid. It unclogs pores and helps deal with zits.
- Delicate pores and skin: Lactic acid or washcloth. They’re the gentlest options within the exfoliating world.
Associated: Glycolic VS Lactic VS Salicylic Acid: Which One Is Right For You?
4. Overcleansing
Okay, I’m executed with overexfoliation. Promise. Now, let’s speak about overcleansing. We’ve turn out to be obsessive about cleaning. It’s not sufficient to cleanse as soon as anymore. Now it’s all about double cleansing. Wait, that’s outdated, too. The latest Korean craze is triple cleansing. And, frankly, that’s the stupidest factor I’ve heard in a protracted whereas.
Triple cleaning begins with utilizing a cleaning wipe to do away with eye make-up. As a result of everyone knows how good these are at eradicating cussed make-up… All that rubbing to take away subsequent to nothing is oh so good for the fragile eye space… I’m being sarcastic, obvs.
I’m not saying cleaning is unhealthy. In fact, you wish to do away with the dust and make-up in your pores and skin. And I do like double cleaning – when done right. However, it’s one factor to cleanse the pores and skin. It’s one other to make it squeaky clear.
Associated: Triple Cleansing Is A Thing: Should You Do It?
THE DANGER OF OVERCLEANSING
You realize sebum, that little factor all of us like to hate? Seems, it’s fairly helpful. It’s your skin’s natural moisturizer. In case your pores and skin doesn’t make sufficient of it, it turns into dry. And when pores and skin is dry, irritations are simply across the nook.
While you overcleanse, you do away with an excessive amount of sebum. That results in dryness, flakiness and irritations. However how have you learnt once you’ve gone too far? Your pores and skin will let you know. You realize that tight feeling you generally get after washing your face? That’s your pores and skin’s method of telling you “Cease utilizing that bloody cleanser so typically. You’re stripping me bare and I don’t prefer it!”
And don’t get me began on the “If my pores and skin is oily, I ought to cleanse extra typically” delusion. Incorrect. Overcleansing truly makes oily pores and skin worse. While you strip an excessive amount of oil, your pores and skin panics and produces much more sebum to compensate. That’s why individuals who wash their face 5 occasions a day typically find yourself shinier than ever. The repair isn’t extra cleaning. It’s steadiness.
WHAT TO DO INSTEAD
Use a gentler cleanser. If in case you have oily pores and skin, go together with a foaming cleanser. Everybody else, use one thing creamy or oil-based. These cleansers replenish the moisture they strip away, protecting your pores and skin blissful and balanced. Doesn’t matter what pores and skin kind you’ve. By no means cleanse greater than twice a day. By no means.
Associated: How To Choose The Right Cleanser For Your Skin Type
5. DIY Skincare
I’m not saying DIY skincare is unhealthy. Loads of it’s fairly good. You simply have to take the time to discover ways to formulate merchandise correctly. Scouring the web for random recipes could do you extra hurt than good.
Auntie Google is fairly loopy. She’ll rave about how good exfoliating with baking soda is, recommend you pop that pimple with toothpaste, and neglect to warn you concerning the risks of utilizing honey in your DIY lotions and potions. All issues that spell unhealthy information to your pores and skin.
THE DANGER OF DIY SKINCARE
Baking soda and toothpaste are actually harsh on the pores and skin. They may severely irritate it. Burn it even. And, with all that sugar, honey can turn your cream into a playground for bacteria. And don’t get me began on DIY sunscreen. With out correct testing, how have you learnt it even works?
There was a viral TikTok development the place individuals utilized lemon juice on to their faces to “brighten” darkish spots. Sure, lemon is acidic -but it’s additionally extremely irritating and phototoxic. Many ended up with burns and worse hyperpigmentation than they began with. That is why dermatologists cringe at DIY hacks: one flawed step, and also you’ve swapped a small downside for a a lot greater one.
There’s much more to DIY skincare than mixing random stuff in a bowl. You might want to know what pH an ingredient has, the way it performs with different substances, how nicely it might probably penetrate your pores and skin… Ignore even one in every of these items and also you threat performing some critical injury to your pores and skin.
WHAT TO DO INSTEAD
I’m not saying it’s best to keep away from DIY skincare. I do know a few of you’re keen on making your lotions and potions. However, please, take the time to discover ways to do it correctly. Get assist from an knowledgeable, take a course, double examine your sources, get the best tools. Don’t merely belief every part Auntie Google tells you.
FAQs About Doing Too A lot Skincare
Can I combine acids and retinoids?
Actually? You possibly can. No person’s gonna come to your own home and arrest you. However your pores and skin might be gonna flip the fuck out. It’s like mixing vodka and whiskey. You suppose you’re dealing with it wonderful till you get up wrecked. Acids already velocity up cell turnover, retinoids already velocity up cell turnover-putting them collectively is simply asking for redness, stinging, peeling, the works. If you happen to actually need each, hold it easy: acids one night time, retinoid the following. Belief me, you’re not lacking out on something magical by separating them. You’re simply avoiding the half the place your pores and skin decides to hate you.
I feel I trashed my pores and skin barrier. Can I repair it or am I doomed?
You’re wonderful, however you gotta cease enjoying chemist. Put each serum again within the drawer. No exfoliants, no retinoids, no “brightening cocktail” of actives. You want the skincare equal of bread and water: mild cleanser, boring-ass moisturizer, sunscreen. That’s it. Nothing horny, nothing enjoyable. And yeah, it’s boring as hell to do the identical three steps on daily basis, however give it time. Just a few weeks in, the redness, the stinging, the random breakouts. All of it chills out. Your pores and skin simply needs a break. Consider it like placing your telephone in airplane mode. It’s nonetheless alive, it’s simply not taking any extra crap for some time.
Do I really want all the flamboyant remedies or am I simply losing cash?
Relies upon. If you happen to’ve acquired zits scars, melasma, or wrinkles that go deep sufficient you may’t ignore them, yeah. Typically a professional therapy is price it. Lasers, peels on the derm’s workplace, microneedling-all that stuff has its place. However in case you’re simply out right here making an attempt to get “glowy” pores and skin and hold growing old at bay, you don’t want half that shit. Fundamentals do the heavy lifting. Sunscreen will hold you from frying, retinoids hold your pores and skin ticking over, moisturizer retains the barrier from breaking. All the pieces else is simply further toppings. You are able to do it, certain, however don’t trick your self into pondering your pores and skin wants it. 9 occasions out of ten, you’re simply paying for the vibe.
The Backside Line
Right here’s the deal: your pores and skin doesn’t want a full Sephora aisle to look good. It’s not a math equation you must clear up with ten serums and three cleansers. It’s extra like your drunk pal on the finish of the night time. They don’t want 5 totally different drinks to really feel higher, they want water, a snack, and to go the fuck to mattress. Identical with pores and skin. Cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen. That’s the inspiration. All the pieces else is elective. Do an excessive amount of and also you’re not “leveling up”. You’re simply making your pores and skin mad.
About Gio
Hello, I am Gio. I am a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is pores and skin coach and author on a mission that can assist you obtain your greatest pores and skin day ever – on daily basis. I bust skincare myths and debunk advertising jargon that can assist you determine what’s well worth the splurge and what’s greatest left on the shelf – utilizing science, not hype. I additionally supply skincare consultations that can assist you create the most effective skincare routine to your distinctive wants.
