Can we speak about magnificence within the Victorian age? You’d suppose an 18 12 months outdated woman changing into queen would give the wonder trade a lift. Certainly, such a younger woman cherished to play with make-up, strive the newest lotions and potions, and launch traits, no?
Incorrect. Queen Victoria cherished to celebration and dance into the wee hours of the morning – however sans make-up. After the profligacy of her predecessors, Victoria was decided to make the monarchy respectable once more. And he or she didn’t suppose there was something respectable about cosmetics.
She thought face paint vulgar, and make-up appropriate just for prostitutes and actresses (there wasn’t a lot distinction between them again then). In truth, Victoria famously declared in 1870 that “The Queen is most anxious to do what she will be able to to discourage the usage of cosmetics.” That royal disapproval definitely didn’t assist the struggling cosmetics trade. However that doesn’t imply that her topics stopped carrying make-up. They simply grew to become higher at hiding it.
Reasonably than the heavy white paints and vibrant rouges of the previous century, respectable well-off women went for the no-makeup make-up look. It completely suited the perfect of fantastic thing about the period, which demanded a fragile and fragile look, with a pale complexion, and lengthy curls. Right here’s how they achieved it:
Complexion
The Victorians cherished pale pores and skin. It was an indication of the Aristocracy. It meant girls have been well-off, and will afford to not spend hours working open air, which might inevitably end in a tan. The horror!
Whereas their ancestors had used harmful concoctions like Venetian ceruse (a lethal mixture of lead and vinegar) to whiten their faces, the Victorians turned to safer alternate options. Zinc oxide became the go-to. This white mineral powder gave pores and skin a porcelain-like end with out the nasty uncomfortable side effects of lead poisoning. It’s nonetheless used at present in sunscreens—although now we complain in regards to the white cast it leaves behind as an alternative of embracing it as a magnificence commonplace!
Those that didn’t like Zinc, merely averted the solar and contemporary hair. After they ventured open air, they’d carry parasols to guard their pores and skin from the solar. Some even drank vinegar. Apparently, they thought that, one way or the other, it’d forestall a tan!
For essentially the most fashion-forward, pale wasn’t sufficient. They wished to look so delicate that you can virtually see by their pores and skin. To realize this, some girls took issues a step additional and painted advantageous blue traces on their arms and temples to imitate seen veins, an indication of utmost femininity and fragility. Just a few even went so far as emphasizing darkish circles beneath their eyes to look extra ethereal. Think about folks intentionally making themselves look sleep-deprived at present!
And, after all, every time their faces received too oily or shiny, a light-weight dusting of powder helped maintain the grease at bay. However solely simply sufficient – overdoing it was a social fake pas!
Make-up
With Queen Victoria’s sturdy stance towards face paint, make-up took a critical hit in respectability. A “correct girl” couldn’t be seen shopping for it, not to mention making use of it in public. However that didn’t imply they deserted it solely. As a substitute, girls grew to become specialists on the artwork of subtlety.
Make-up was now all about reaching a pure, “my-skin-but-better” impact. All the pieces needed to be utilized with the lightest contact. Rouge was nonetheless a staple, however as an alternative of vibrant reds, girls opted for mushy pinks, typically achieved with crushed beet juice. Some girls used rice powder blended with a touch of carmine to get that pure flush.
Lip coloration was utilized in secret and sparingly. Beeswax and plant-based dyes have been widespread substances, whereas extra daring girls used cochineal (a pink dye derived from bugs) to offer their lips a faint pink hue. However heavy lipstick? Completely not! That was reserved for “fallen girls.”
Eye make-up was virtually nonexistent by at present’s requirements. Heavy kohl-lined eyes have been far too risqué, so girls opted for lead-based powders to subtly improve their eyes – sure, nonetheless poisonous, however at the least much less apparent! Eyebrows have been plucked, however solely frivolously, simply sufficient to create a pure, polished form.
Skincare
Make-up might have been out, however skincare? That was a special story. In case you couldn’t cowl up imperfections, you needed to forestall them within the first place. DIY magnificence remedies grew to become all the fashion.
Girls concocted their very own lotions, lotions, and tonics utilizing pure substances discovered of their kitchens and gardens. Almond oil, rosewater, glycerin, and beeswax have been widespread staples of their skincare arsenals. Lily water and elderflower water have been believed to melt the pores and skin, whereas cucumber juice was used as a brightening agent.
For these battling zits (which they typically referred to as “spots” or “blemishes”), options ranged from natural infusions to downright weird practices. Some Victorian magnificence manuals advisable washing the face with rainwater to maintain the pores and skin clear. Others recommended making use of mashed strawberries or honey as a primitive face masks. And let’s not overlook the idea that bathing in milk might preserve youthful pores and skin – a development Cleopatra would have authorized of!
Hair
If make-up was scandalous, a girl’s hair was sacred. Lengthy, voluminous locks have been thought-about an indication of femininity and wonder, and most girls not often lower their hair. Trimming was reserved for excessive circumstances, equivalent to sickness or mourning.
To realize that coveted fullness, girls typically used false hairpieces. Hair collected from servants or purchased from wigmakers was sewn into elaborate extensions to boost pure tresses. Oils like rosemary, castor, and macassar oil (which impressed the invention of “antimacassars” – these lace doilies positioned on chairs to stop greasy stains) have been extensively used to maintain hair easy and glossy.
Hairstyles weren’t notably experimental. Chignons, buns, and cascading curls have been the usual. Younger girls typically wore their hair down in lengthy, mushy curls, however as soon as married, they have been anticipated to put on it up as an indication of maturity. Hair equipment have been important – ornamental combs, ribbons, and bejeweled pins added a contact of magnificence.
Males’s Grooming
Victorian girls might have been all about mushy femininity, however the males? The alternative. A well-groomed Victorian man sported a thick, full beard or at the least a powerful mustache. A clean-shaven face was typically related to youth or, worse, boyishness, one thing no self-respecting Victorian gentleman wished.
As for hairstyles, shorter cuts grew to become extra standard, a stark distinction to the lengthy, flowing locks of the earlier century. However one factor remained constant: the love of pomades. Macassar oil was the hair product of selection, slicking again hair to perfection – a lot in order that furnishings producers began making antimacassars to guard upholstery from the greasy residue.
The Backside Line
There you’ve got it, all you ever wished to learn about magnificence within the Victorian age. Whereas Queen Victoria might have wished to banish cosmetics to the shadows, magnificence traits didn’t disappear solely. They simply tailored. Girls grew to become specialists on the artwork of “barely-there” make-up, mastered DIY skincare, and located artistic methods to take care of their delicate, doll-like look. And regardless that Victorian magnificence beliefs may appear excessive (portray on veins? Encouraging darkish circles?), they have been deeply tied to the cultural and social expectations of the time.
So subsequent time you complain in regards to the white forged out of your sunscreen or spend hours perfecting your “no-makeup” make-up look, simply bear in mind – you’re not the primary to go to nice lengths for magnificence!