So, you’ve been scrolling TikTok and everybody’s shedding their shit over azelaic acid, and now you’re like the best way to layer azelaic acid with all the opposite crap in my routine with out my face falling off? Woman, I acquired you. On this article, we’re gonna work out this naturally occurring acid collectively: what it does, the best way to use it with out screwing up your pores and skin, and which combos are gonna provide you with that glow versus which of them are gonna make you appear to be a tomato.
What Is Azelaic Acid Anyway?
Azelaic acid is mainly the nippiness pal who vibes with everybody. It’s a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid from grains like wheat and barley (yeah, the stuff in your bread), and it’s been making gentle work of uneven pores and skin texture and darkish spots endlessly, however TikTok simply found it and now everybody’s freaking out. This distinctive pores and skin ingredient is legit magic for just about everybody. Obtained oily pores and skin that’s continuously breaking out? It helps. Dry pores and skin that’s flakey and unhappy? Yep. Rosacea-prone pores and skin that turns purple whenever you breathe fallacious? That is YOUR ingredient.
It kills the bacteria causing your acne-prone skin to act up, fades darkish spots from that zit you picked final month (we’ve all been there), calms redness, and even smooths out fantastic strains. The nerdy bit: azelaic acid hangs out on the floor of the pores and skin unclogging pores, chilling out inflammation, and telling your pores and skin to sit back with the melanin manufacturing. Translation? Clearer, extra even pores and skin. And in contrast to these harsh alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic acid or lactic acid that may burn like hell, these things is approach gentler for delicate pores and skin.
Associated: Azelaic Acid VS Retinol: Which One Should I Use?
Don’t know which skincare merchandise you possibly can combine and match collectively and which of them deactivate one another? Obtain your FREE “How To Layer Actives Like A Professional” cheat sheet to get probably the most out of your skincare merchandise:
The Primary Layering Guidelines
The skincare world has this rule everybody forgets: skinny to thick. Water stuff first, then oils and lotions. It’s like getting dressed: you don’t put your jacket on earlier than your shirt, proper? However with energetic substances like azelaic acid, retinoids, and varied acids, you additionally gotta take into consideration timing and whether or not stuff’s gonna play good collectively or have a combat in your face. Chemistry class however make it skincare.
Easy methods to Really Layer Azelaic Acid
FYI, you don’t want to make use of Azelaic Acid each morning and night time. In truth, particularly whenever you’re first began out, it’s greatest to make use of it solely as soon as a day – ideally at night time. Why night time? Simple. The extra layers you placed on within the morning, the upper the possibility sunscreen utility will probably be uneven.
Morning Skincare Routine
Right here’s the easiest way to make use of azelaic acid whenever you stumble away from bed:
- Wash Your Face: Use one thing light. Get the crusty sleep and drool off. That’s it.
- Vitamin C Serum: Vitamin C and azelaic acid are literally besties for nuking darkish spots and solar injury. Plus, making use of Vitamin C within the morning boosts the effectiveness of your sunscreen.
- Azelaic acid: That is your second! Pea-sized quantity of azelaic acid cream or serum, unfold it round. DON’T use an excessive amount of. Extra doesn’t imply higher with this shit. Widespread mistake everybody makes is globbing it on after which crying when their face will get pissed.
- Hyaluronic Acid (non-obligatory): I like to recommend you do that provided that you’ve acquired dry pores and skin or dwell someplace that sucks the moisture out of every little thing (taking a look at you, Saudi Arabia and United Arab Emirates in summer season).
- Sunscreen: That is NOT non-obligatory. I don’t care in the event you’re within the wet UK or the sunny Cayman Islands or Christmas Island or the Faroe Islands-WEAR SUNSCREEN. SPF 30 minimal. Azelaic acid makes you extra delicate to solar injury and also you don’t wanna fade your darkish spots simply to get new ones from being an fool about solar safety.
Night Skincare Routine
- Cleanser: Your morning cleanser is ok. If it doesn’t take away all traces of make-up and sunscreen, get a greater cleanser.
- Azelaic Acid: Right here’s the thing-you’re gonna use this on ALTERNATE nights, not each night time. Use retinol or one other highly effective energetic. Take note, Azelaic acid exfoliates pores and skin, so utilizing a separate exfoliant will not be crucial.
- Hyaluronic Acid: Azelaic acid, retinol, and highly effective actives are harsh. Now you want hyaluronic acid to maintain pores and skin hydrate and assist it higher tolerate these highly effective actives.
- Moisturizer: Lock it in and name it an evening.
ON YOUR OFF NIGHTS (THE ONES WITHOUT AZELAIC ACID)
THIS is when you need to use your retinol or retinoic acid in order for you. So like Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday. See how that works? You’re alternating between azelaic acid nights and retinoid nights. By no means each on the identical night time whenever you’re beginning out.
What Elements Can’t You Layer With Azelaic Acid?
Actual speak about what NOT to do:
- Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Do NOT use glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid on the identical night time as azelaic acid. I’m severe. All of them exfoliate and utilizing them collectively is actually sandpaper in your face.Beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) dives deep in your pores, alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic and lactic acid) work on the floor, and azelaic acid does type of each. You utilize them on the SAME night time, particularly with delicate or rosacea-prone pores and skin? Yeah, you’re fucked. Use azelaic acid by itself nights. Use your different acids on totally different nights. That’s it. That’s the rule.
- Benzoyl Peroxide: This combo may be tremendous drying. For those who completely want each, do benzoyl peroxide within the morning, azelaic acid at night time on alternate nights. And moisturize like loopy.
- The whole lot : The largest widespread mistake? Attempting to make use of each ingredient you noticed on TikTok on the similar time. Your face isn’t a science experiment. Chill.
Associated: Which Skincare Ingredients Should You Never Mix And Match?
Begin Sluggish
Right here’s what no person warns you about: “light” doesn’t imply your pores and skin received’t want to regulate. First time utilizing azelaic acid or including it to a routine that already has different actives? Take. It. Sluggish.
- Week 1-2: Azelaic acid each different night time, nothing else fancy
- Week 3-4: Each night time in case your pores and skin’s cool with it
- Week 5+: Begin including different actives like retinoids, however on totally different nights
Widespread Errors When Layering Azelaic Acid
Okay so folks mess up with azelaic acid continuously after which marvel why their pores and skin seems to be like crap. Right here’s what everybody does fallacious:
- Going too laborious too quick: You possibly can’t simply slap it on each night time from day one. Your pores and skin’s gonna freak out. Begin each different night time, possibly each third night time in case your pores and skin’s just a little bitch about new stuff. Rosacea-prone pores and skin? Positively go sluggish. I don’t care what TikTok instructed you. Work your approach up or undergo.
- Throwing every little thing on without delay: Simply because azelaic acid performs good with niacinamide and vitamin C doesn’t imply you dump your total routine in your face. Preserve it easy whenever you’re beginning. Azelaic acid plus possibly one different factor, that’s it. Your face isn’t a petri dish.
- Utilizing approach an excessive amount of: Pea-sized quantity. That’s it. Extra doesn’t make it work sooner, it simply pisses off your pores and skin and wastes your cash.
- Skipping sunscreen when it’s cloudy: UV rays don’t care about clouds. You’re fading darkish spots and fixing uneven pores and skin tone simply to let solar injury fuck all of it up once more? Put on SPF each morning whether or not you’re in South Africa or wet England.
- Quitting after two weeks: Two weeks isn’t sufficient. Azelaic acid takes like 8-12 weeks to really do one thing seen for darkish spots and acne-prone pores and skin. Keep it up or don’t begin.
- Mixing it with different acids the identical night time: No glycolic acid, no lactic acid, no salicylic acid on azelaic acid nights. One exfoliant per night time. Folks maintain doing this after which cry about their destroyed pores and skin barrier. Don’t be silly.
How To Layer Azelaic Acid For Totally different Pores and skin Issues
Right here’s what’s truly cool about azelaic acid: it does comparable shit as different substances however in utterly alternative ways. Which implies you may be sensible about combos as a substitute of simply slapping every little thing in your face and praying.
DARK SPOTS
Vitamin C stops new ones earlier than they present up. Azelaic acid blocks the enzyme making the darkish crap. Alpha hydroxy acids scrub off the highest layer so the brighter pores and skin exhibits by way of.
What I’d do: Vitamin C within the morning, azelaic acid at night time each different night time. Growth, you’re fading these spots with out wrecking your pores and skin. Acids? Drop them. It’s not about utilizing all of the issues. It’s about utilizing what works greatest.
ACNE
Salicylic acid will get in your pores and clears the nasty stuff. Benzoyl peroxide kills the micro organism but additionally kinda nukes every little thing else. Azelaic acid kills micro organism, calms every little thing down, AND unclogs pores with out being such an asshole about it.
My transfer: Discover a product that has each azelaic acid and salicylic acid in it-they’re truly formulated to work collectively so that you don’t should play chemist. Use that at night time on alternate nights. If issues get actually dangerous and also you want the nuclear choice, benzoyl peroxide will help, however truthfully it’s harsh as fuck so I’d keep away from it in the event you can.
FINE LINES
Retinoids velocity up your pores and skin doing its factor and make extra collagen. Alpha hydroxy acids eliminate lifeless pores and skin hanging round. Azelaic acid exfoliates gently whereas chilling out any irritation.
Easy methods to do it: Retinoid possibly 2-3 nights per week. Azelaic acid on the nights you’re not utilizing retinoid. In case your pores and skin’s robust sufficient, throw azelaic acid within the morning too. Simply by no means each at night time, that’s asking for bother.
Does Azelaic Acid Have Any Undesirable Aspect Results?
Look, despite the fact that azelaic acid is fairly chill, unintended effects of azelaic acid nonetheless occur. Right here’s the true deal:
- Tingling or heat: Totally regular at first. Ought to fade after like 5-10 minutes. If it doesn’t, possibly your focus’s too excessive.
- Bit purple: Yeah, occurs whenever you begin. Goes away as your pores and skin adjusts. Nonetheless purple after a couple of weeks? You’re overdoing it.
- Flaky and dry: Your pores and skin’s screaming for moisture. Extra moisturizer or use it much less. Possibly each third night time as a substitute of each different.
- Really hurts and stings: Wash it off NOW. Take per week off and whenever you strive once more, go decrease focus or do the sandwich factor (moisturizer → azelaic acid → extra moisturizer).
- Hives or swelling or your face is melting: Allergic response. Uncommon but it surely occurs. Cease utilizing it, don’t return to it, see a derm if it’s actually dangerous.
Is Azelaic Acid Secure Throughout Being pregnant And Breastfeeding?
Right here’s the excellent news: in contrast to retinoids and tons of different stuff, azelaic acid is normally completely fantastic whenever you’re knocked up or nursing. Most docs will say go for it in the event you’ve acquired being pregnant zits or these darkish patches (melasma) that present up. It’s one of many few actives you need to use with out panicking about it. BUT, I’m not your physician, clearly. Test together with your precise doc or derm earlier than you begin something new whenever you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. Simply ’trigger it’s normally protected doesn’t imply you shouldn’t ask.
What Are The Finest Merchandise With Azelaic Acid?
- Facetheory Blemicalm Azelaic Acid 15% Clarifying Serum (£26.00): Loaded with 15% Azelaic acid and colloidal oatmeal, it helps deal with zits, soothe irritations, and lighten darkish spots. Obtainable at Facetheory
- Paula’s Alternative 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00): It features a contact of Salicylic Acid to unclog pores too. Obtainable at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, and SpaceNK
- The Atypical Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% ($12.20): A easy, no-frills formulation that simply works with out breaking the financial institution. Obtainable at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary, and Ulta
The Backside Line
Look, the best way to layer azelaic acid isn’t rocket science. Begin sluggish, apply it to alternate nights, don’t combine it with different acids on the identical night time, and put on sunscreen. That’s actually it.This naturally occurring acid works for just about everybody: oily pores and skin, dry pores and skin, delicate pores and skin, acne-prone pores and skin, darkish spots, uneven pores and skin tone, no matter. It’s a kind of uncommon skincare substances that really does what it says with out being a dick about it. You’re not gonna get up with good pores and skin tomorrow. Give it like 8-12 weeks of truly sticking with it and also you’ll see actual adjustments.Cease overthinking it. Cease studying one million blogs. Cease making an attempt to repeat what some influencer in South Korea is doing. Simply use the rattling factor persistently and hearken to what YOUR pores and skin’s telling you.Now go repair your face and cease stressing.
About Gio
Hello, I am Gio. I am a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is pores and skin coach and author on a mission that can assist you obtain your greatest pores and skin day ever – on daily basis. I bust skincare myths and debunk advertising and marketing jargon that can assist you work out what’s definitely worth the splurge and what’s greatest left on the shelf – utilizing science, not hype. I additionally supply skincare consultations that can assist you create the most effective skincare routine to your distinctive wants.
