Which Is Right For YOU? – Beautiful With Brains

OK, so let me guess: You’ve been coping with breakouts, or redness, or these annoying darkish spots that simply received’t fade – and out of the blue each product you Google has both azelaic acid or niacinamide in it.

Generally each. Generally combined with, like, snail slime and fermented mushrooms. This entire azelaic acid VS niacinamide debate is so complicated! And now you’re sitting there considering:

• Wait… do I would like each?
• Are they secretly the identical factor?
• Which one is really gonna repair my pores and skin?
• Why does each influencer act like each are magic however by no means clarify what the hell they do?

I received you.

That is all it’s essential to find out about what azelaic acid and niacinamide really do, how they’re totally different, if you need to use them collectively with out your pores and skin flipping out, and which one to incorporate in your skincare routine:

Azelaic Acid: What It Is And How Does It Profit Pores and skin?

Azelaic acid seems like one thing that will burn a gap by means of your countertop, however hear me out – it’s really weirdly mild. Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid (don’t fear, that’s only a science-y means of claiming it’s it’s means milder than Glycolic Acid or Salicylic Acid). It’s naturally present in grains like barley and wheat, and your individual pores and skin even produces it.

However the actual skincare magic occurs in lab-made, stabilized variations, normally in 10% or 15% concentrations. And whereas it doesn’t get as a lot hype as, say, retinol or vitamin C, dermatologists have been quietly obsessive about it for many years. Particularly for zits. And rosacea. And hyperpigmentation. And post-inflammatory redness. Principally, in case your pores and skin goes by means of one thing? Azelaic acid is like, “I received you.”

Advantages Of Azelaic Acid 

1. It fights zits gently: Azelaic acid kills the micro organism that causes zits. However in contrast to harsher actives (taking a look at you, benzoyl peroxide), it doesn’t dry your pores and skin out or ship your barrier right into a full-blown meltdown. Bonus: it additionally gently exfoliates, so it helps unclog pores too — however with out the uncooked, flaky aftermath.  Research say that 20% azelaic acid cream is simply as efficient as 5% benzoyl peroxide and 0.05% tretinoin — however means much less irritating.
2. It helps with post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation: Azelaic acid blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme that helps produce melanin, which implies it actively fades darkish spots, melasma, and PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). It’s like slightly pores and skin tone editor in a tube. Azelaic acid is clinically proven to reduce melasma and pigment irregularities, particularly when mixed with different topicals like glycolic acid or retinoids.
3. It calms redness and irritation: Received rosacea or simply super-sensitive pores and skin that turns purple when the wind blows? Azelaic acid is your new greatest pal. It has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce inflammation, calm seen blood vessels, and assist decrease these small purple bumps that nothing else appears to the touch.
4. It gently exfoliates: Azelaic acid quickens pores and skin cell turnover, which helps with texture, bumps, dullness, and clogged pores. However in contrast to AHAs or BHAs, it’s not going to depart your pores and skin purple and uncooked. You get the smoothing advantages with out the sting.
5. Secure for pregnant ladies: It’s one of many only a few zits and skin-lightening components that’s protected throughout being pregnant and breastfeeding.

Azelaic Acid Aspect Results

Okay, so this half’s essential.Regardless that azelaic acid is technically mild, it can be annoying at first. Commonest reactions (particularly within the first few weeks):

• Tingling or gentle stinging
• A bit of itchiness
• Dryness or flakiness
• Slight purging (in case your pores and skin is congested)

Greatest Azelaic Acid Picks

Listed here are the most effective azelaic acid merchandise to deal with any pores and skin situations you’ll have:

• Blemicalm Azelaic Acid 15% Clarifying Serum £26.00): Loaded with 15% Azelaic acid and colloidal oatmeal, it helps deal with zits, soothe irritations, and lighten darkish spots. Out there at Facetheory
• Paula’s Alternative 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00): It features a contact of Salicylic Acid to unclog pores too. Out there at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, and SpaceNK
• The Atypical Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% ($12.20): A easy, no-frills system that simply works with out breaking the financial institution. Out there at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, The Ordinary, and Ulta

Cease losing your money and time on stuff that doesn’t work. Click on on the picture under to obtain “Skincare That Works” and eventually get your greatest pores and skin day – day by day.

Niacinamide: What It Is And How Does It Profit Pores and skin?

Niacinamide is a type of vitamin B (a elaborate title for Vitamin B3, to be actual). That’s it. Nothing scary. It’s not an acid, it’s not exfoliating, and it’s not going to out of the blue soften your face off. It’s really one of many gentlest, most versatile components on the market — which is why skincare manufacturers preserve placing it in every thing. 

Advantages Of Niacinamide

Right here’s what niacinamide does (backed by science and by each skincare nerd who’s ever gone on a Reddit deep dive):

1. 1. It calms down pores and skin irritation: Received redness? Blotchiness? Indignant, reactive pores and skin that flares up the second you attempt one thing new? Niacinamide is just like the pal who talks you off the ledge. It reduces inflammation and helps soothe the drama. That is particularly useful for zits, rosacea, and simply common pores and skin crankiness.
2. It strengthens your pores and skin barrier: Consider your pores and skin barrier because the safety guard that retains the great things (hydration) in and the dangerous stuff (air pollution, micro organism, irritation) out. Niacinamide helps rebuild and reinforce that barrier by boosting ceramide production — and meaning your pores and skin will get stronger, more healthy, and fewer prone to freak out when the climate modifications otherwise you attempt a brand new product.
3. It helps with hydration: No, it’s not a moisturizer. However when your barrier is stronger and happier, your pores and skin holds onto moisture means higher. Pair niacinamide with an excellent hyaluronic acid or moisturizer, and also you’ve received a glowy, bouncy scenario happening.
4. It reduces uneven pores and skin tone and fades hyperpigmentation: In the event you’ve received leftover zits marks or common unevenness, niacinamide may help fade that slowly over time. It doesn’t bleach your pores and skin (we do not try this right here), but it surely reduces how a lot melanin will get transferred to the highest layers – which implies darkish spots fade extra gently and evenly. Clinical studies have shown that 5% niacinamide can visibly improve hyperpigmentation and skin tone after just 4 weeks.
5. It regulates oil with out drying you out: In the event you’re oily however delicate (aka the combo-skin nightmare), niacinamide is chef’s kiss. It helps scale back how a lot oil your pores and skin produces, so that you look much less shiny with out over-stripping your face like a harsh cleanser would.
6. It may scale back pore measurement: This one’s slightly controversial. Niacinamide doesn’t technically “shrink” pores (nothing actually can), however by bettering pores and skin texture, calming irritation, and lowering oil, your pores look smaller and fewer noticeable. And actually? That’s ok for many of us. 
7. It really works for all pores and skin sort: Whether or not you’ve got dry pores and skin, oily pores and skin, regular pores and skin, mixture pores and skin, or delicate pores and skin, Niacinamide’s received you coated. It moisturises and soothes with out leaving your pores and skin a greasy mess.

Enjoyable truth: NOTHING decreased my pores higher and quicker than Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster. I used to be shocked.

Associated: My Full Review of Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster

Niacinamide Aspect Results

Right here’s the excellent news: niacinamide is tremendous well-tolerated. Like, out of all of the energetic components in skincare, it’s one of many best on delicate pores and skin. You possibly can normally use it day by day, with different actives, and morning or night time, with out stressing.

That mentioned (and that is essential) extra isn’t at all times higher. In the event you go too onerous with the share (10%+), particularly in case your pores and skin’s on the delicate aspect, you may get:

• Gentle irritation
• Redness
• Itchy little bumps (uncommon, but it surely occurs)
• The notorious “niacin flush” – a heat, tingling feeling that’s innocent however freaky

If that occurs, don’t panic. Simply reduce. Attempt a decrease proportion (2–5%), and don’t combine it with 5 different sturdy actives on the identical night time. Your pores and skin isn’t a lab experiment.

Greatest Niacinamide Picks

Listed here are the most effective skincare merchandise with niacinamide:

• Paula’s Alternative Resist 10% Niacinamide Booster ($42.00): It shrinks your pores, hydrates your pores and skin, and brightens the complexion. Plus, it’s filled with antioxidants (together with Vitamin C) that will help you preserve these pesky untimely wrinkles at bay, too. Out there at Cult Beauty, Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK
• The Inkey Listing Niacinamide ($6.99): On prime of hydrating niacinamide, it additionally has hyaluronic acid so as to add moisture again into the pores and skin and Squalane to strengthen its protecting barrier. Plus, it brightens pores and skin and helps stop wrinkles. Out there at Boots, Cult Beauty, The Inkey List
• The Atypical Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (£5.00): Appropriate just for oily pores and skin, it reduces extra oil, helps deal with zits, and reduces redness and irritation. Out there at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta

Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Pimples?

Quick reply? Azelaic acid may win this spherical. However niacinamide’s nonetheless pulling weight.

Right here’s the deal: Azelaic acid doesn’t simply calm zits. It goes straight for the micro organism that trigger it and tells them to pack their luggage. It additionally helps unclog pores and reduces keratin buildup (aka the stuff that results in whiteheads, blackheads, and cystic surprise-attacks). One study found that 15% azelaic acid gel was just as effective for mild-to-moderate acne as 5% benzoyl peroxide and 0.05% tretinoin, but with way fewer side effects.

Niacinamide, then again, is like zits’s chill mediator. It doesn’t kill micro organism, but it surely calms irritation (so these large indignant spots don’t look so… volcanic), and it helps regulate oil manufacturing. Consider it because the zits prevention plan, not the assault mode. One research confirmed that 4% niacinamide worked just as well as 1% clindamycin (a topical antibiotic) for inflammatory zits, with no antibiotic resistance or dryness.  PubMed study link

Use azelaic acid if:

• You’re breaking out with bumps and leftover marks
• You need one thing stronger however not irritating
• You’re not getting sufficient from “mild” merchandise anymore

Use niacinamide if:

• Your zits is hormonal, gentle, or linked to grease manufacturing
• You’re already utilizing stronger actives and wish one thing supportive
• You need an on a regular basis anti-inflammatory helper

Verdict: Use azelaic acid to scrub up the chaos. Use niacinamide to maintain it from coming again.

Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Hyperpigmentation (Darkish Spots)?

Darkish spots (aka hyperpigmentation) will be annoying as hell. Particularly when the breakout is gone however the spot stays like a foul reminiscence.

Niacinamide helps stop melanin from being transferred to the floor of the pores and skin. It’s sort of like intercepting a textual content earlier than it will get delivered. Your pores and skin’s like, “Nope, not displaying this pigment as we speak.” It brightens, fades unevenness, and works slowly and gently over time.  In one study, 5% niacinamide significantly improved hyperpigmentation and skin tone after just 4 weeks.

Azelaic acid, although? It blocks the enzyme tyrosinase, the one your pores and skin makes use of to make melanin within the first place. That’s deeper-level motion. It’s particularly good for cussed pigmentation, post-inflammatory marks (like after zits), and even melasma. A 20% azelaic acid cream was shown to be as effective as 4% hydroquinone (a literal prescription brightener) in treating melasma, however with means fewer unwanted side effects.

Use azelaic acid if:

• Your darkish spots are deep, cussed, or hormonal (melasma)
• You need one thing that works with out bleaching or irritation
• You’re already utilizing sunscreen every day (which try to be anyway, tbh)

Use niacinamide if:

• You’re simply beginning out and wish to gently even out tone
• Your pigmentation is gentle and post-acne
• You’re delicate to stronger components and wish a slow-and-steady possibility

Verdict: Azelaic acid is the heavy lifter for cussed spots. Niacinamide’s your mild, constant backup singer.

Azelaic Acid VS Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher For Rosacea (& Delicate Pores and skin)?

Let’s simply say it: most skincare isn’t made with delicate pores and skin in thoughts.

Azelaic acid is likely one of the few energetic components that really has a prescription model particularly for rosacea. It doesn’t simply calm redness. It helps shrink the infected blood vessels and clears these little under-the-skin purple bumps that nothing else touches. Research have proven that 15% azelaic acid gel significantly reduces inflammatory lesions and visual redness in rosacea sufferers, and it’s typically more practical than metronidazole, a typical prescription.

Niacinamide, although, is sort of a every day hug in your pores and skin barrier. It reduces trans-epidermal water loss (a elaborate means of claiming it helps your pores and skin keep hydrated) and boosts ceramide manufacturing. It doesn’t go as deep as azelaic acid in treating rosacea, but it surely’s an ideal match for pores and skin that’s reactive, dry, or simply uninterested in being irritated. Clinical trials have shown that 2%–5% niacinamide improves hydration, reduces irritation, and increases skin resilience over time. 

Use azelaic acid if:

• You may have rosacea-prone pores and skin
• You get flushing, burning, or random irritation flare-ups
• Your pores and skin hates every thing, however nonetheless wants one thing to assist

Use niacinamide if:

• You’re simply usually delicate and wish to strengthen your barrier
• You get redness from climate, over-exfoliating, or stress
• You want a relaxing ingredient that received’t trigger drama

Verdict: Azelaic acid is your “I’m having a rosacea flare-up” firefighter. Niacinamide is your every day moisturizer’s dependable greatest pal.

Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Pimples Scars?

Let’s clear this up: If by “zits scars” you imply darkish marks left behind after breakouts (aka post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)? Each azelaic acid and niacinamide may help. However for those who’re speaking about textured, indented scars, the sort that seem like dents or raised bumps? Neither of those components will do a lot. Topicals can fade pigment. They will’t rebuild collagen deep within the pores and skin. For that, you’re taking a look at issues like microneedling, lasers, or prescription retinoids.

Verdict: Neither azelaic acid nor niacinamide will repair indented zits scars.

Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Oily Pores and skin?

Let’s be actual: oily pores and skin is exhausting. You wash your face and two hours later it’s like your T-zone is auditioning to fry an egg. Your make-up doesn’t keep put, your pores seem like craters, and for those who skip your routine for even one night time? Increase! Breakout metropolis. So what’s higher for managing all that? Azelaic acid or niacinamide?

Niacinamide is the actual MVP right here. It doesn’t simply deal with oil. It really helps scale back how a lot oil your pores and skin produces within the first place. Studies have shown that using a 2% niacinamide formulation can significantly lower sebum excretion rates in people with oily skin.

Translation: you’ll look much less shiny, have fewer clogged pores, and your pores and skin received’t really feel like a slip-and-slide by lunchtime. Bonus: niacinamide helps tighten up the look of pores (no, it doesn’t shrink them – nothing actually does – however they appear smaller when there’s much less gunk and oil stretching them out).

Azelaic acid, then again, doesn’t instantly regulate oil, but it surely does assist with what occurs due to the oil.

In case your oiliness comes with breakouts, clogged pores, or bumpy texture, azelaic acid gently exfoliates and helps preserve these pores clear. It’s anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and superb for shiny, acne-prone pores and skin. Simply don’t count on it to decelerate oil manufacturing itself -that’s not its factor.

Use azelaic acid if:

• Your oiliness comes with whiteheads, blackheads, or breakouts
• You want one thing to clear pores and calm irritation
• You’re oily and acne-prone

Use niacinamide if:

• You wish to scale back oiliness on the root
• You’re in search of much less shine, smaller-looking pores, and higher barrier perform
• You’re oily but additionally delicate and wish one thing ultra-gentle

Verdict: Niacinamide wins for precise oil management. Azelaic acid’s nice for the unwanted side effects of oily pores and skin (breakouts, congestion), however for those who’re uninterested in feeling greasy by midday? Niacinamide’s your lady.

Azelaic Acid vs Niacinamide: Which One Is Higher for Darker Pores and skin Tones?

In the event you’ve received melanin-rich pores and skin, you already know: your pores and skin behaves otherwise – in the most effective and most intricate methods. You’re extra liable to hyperpigmentation. Each breakout leaves a mark. And means too many merchandise both don’t work or straight-up make issues worse. So let’s break down what azelaic acid and niacinamide really do for darker pores and skin tones, and which one deserves a spot in your routine.

Azelaic acid is a large win for deeper pores and skin tones – particularly for those who take care of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (aka these darkish spots that stick round endlessly after a breakout or rash). It really works by blocking an enzyme referred to as tyrosinase, which is concerned in melanin manufacturing. It doesn’t bleach. It doesn’t disrupt your pure tone. It simply stops the overproduction of pigment the place your pores and skin’s been infected. And it does it gently.

One study showed that 20% azelaic acid was just as effective as 4% hydroquinone in treating melasma (a notoriously cussed sort of pigmentation) with out the cruel unwanted side effects hydroquinone is understood for. Additionally: azelaic acid is much less prone to trigger rebound pigmentation or irritation (darker pores and skin tones are extra reactive to irritation, and irritation can really set off extra pigment).

Niacinamide additionally works on pigmentation, however from a barely totally different angle. It doesn’t block melanin manufacturing. As a substitute, it prevents melanin that’s already been comprised of being transferred to the higher layers of the pores and skin (the place it turns into seen as a darkish spot). It’s slower, subtler, and extra of a prevention device than a remedy for deeper present pigmentation.

In a single scientific research, 5% niacinamide significantly improved hyperpigmentation and tone after 4 weeks, particularly in subjects with Fitzpatrick skin types III–V. Additionally nice? Niacinamide strengthens the pores and skin barrier, reduces irritation, and works superbly in routines the place you’re layering stronger actives like acids or retinoids. It makes every thing else play nicer.

Use azelaic acid if:

• You’re coping with darkish marks from zits, shaving, or irritation
• You need one thing that fades pigment with out bleaching or irritating
• You’re liable to PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and wish one thing efficient however mild

Use niacinamide if:

• Your pigmentation is gentle or newer
• You wish to stop new spots whereas bettering pores and skin tone over time
• You’re utilizing different sturdy actives and wish one thing to assist your barrier

Verdict: Azelaic acid is the heavy-hitter for cussed hyperpigmentation in darker pores and skin tones – with out the chance of over-lightening or irritation. Niacinamide is a good upkeep device, particularly for those who’re engaged on brightening, oil management, or calming irritation in your routine. For lots of melanin-rich pores and skin varieties? The combo is gold. One fades, the opposite protects.

Can I Use Niacinamide And Azelaic Acid Collectively?

Sure. In case your pores and skin is coping with multiple factor (zits and darkish spots, oiliness and redness), the mixture of azelaic acid and niacinamide can really work higher than utilizing both one by itself.

They don’t cancel one another out. They don’t irritate one another. They usually goal totally different points in a means that makes them tremendous complementary:

• Azelaic acid clears clogged pores, fights zits, fades pigmentation, and calms irritation
• Niacinamide strengthens your pores and skin barrier, reduces oiliness, evens tone, and helps your pores and skin keep calm and balanced

How To Use Niacinamide And Azelaic Acid Collectively

Okay, so now that we’ve established azelaic acid and niacinamide is a successful mixture that provides you greatest outcomes, right here’s learn how to really use them with out overwhelming your pores and skin or turning your routine right into a science experiment.

LAYERING TIPS

• You possibly can apply niacinamide first if you wish to buffer potential irritation from azelaic acid, particularly for those who’re new to actives or your pores and skin is delicate.
• In case your azelaic acid is in a thicker cream or suspension, apply that after your niacinamide serum. Lightest to heaviest is the final rule.
• Use them as soon as a day to begin. You possibly can construct as much as twice every day in case your pores and skin is loving it.

DON’T MIX WITH

• Robust AHAs (like Glycolic Acid or lactic acid) or BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) in the identical routine (it’s an excessive amount of)
• Retinoids on the identical night time until your pores and skin is used to it
• 1,000,000 different actives. Let this duo do its factor

Associated: Mix And Match: Which Skincare Ingredients You Shouldn’t Use Together

How Lengthy Does It Take to See Outcomes with Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide?

Niacinamide and Azelaic acid are each efficient components, however they’re not miracle staff.  Most individuals begin seeing ends in 4 to eight weeks. Nothing instantaneous, however completely definitely worth the wait.

• Within the first 1–2 weeks: your pores and skin may really feel smoother, however don’t count on main modifications
• By weeks 3–4: you could discover much less oil, calmer breakouts, and extra even tone
• By weeks 6–8: darkish spots begin fading, redness goes down, and your pores and skin simply appears to be like… higher

The Backside Line

Two of the most effective skincare components on the market, azelaic acid and niacinamide aren’t making an attempt to do the actual similar job — and that’s what makes them such an excellent staff. Azelaic acid is your go-to for zits, pigmentation, rosacea, and mild exfoliation. Niacinamide is your calming, oil-controlling, barrier-strengthening multitasker.

In case your pores and skin is coping with a number of issues directly (which, let’s be trustworthy, most of us are), the mixture of azelaic acid and niacinamide is an efficient remedy that may cowl far more floor than both one alone. They’re protected to make use of collectively, backed by science, and work greatest while you’re constant and affected person. You additionally know what the most effective skincare merchandise with them are, so that you’re all settled for higher outcomes.

About Gio

Hello, I am Gio. I am a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is pores and skin coach and author on a mission that will help you obtain your greatest pores and skin day ever – day by day. I bust skincare myths and debunk advertising and marketing jargon that will help you work out what’s definitely worth the splurge and what’s greatest left on the shelf – utilizing science, not hype. I additionally supply skincare consultations that will help you create the most effective skincare routine in your distinctive wants.