Final Up to date on October 29, 2025 by Giorgia Guazzarotti
So there I used to be, scrolling by way of TikTok at 2 AM (as you do), watching one more influencer rave about their $30 derma curler that supposedly erased ten years off their face. In the meantime, my dermatologist retains speaking about some fancy microneedling pen that prices far more. Sound acquainted? Right here’s the factor: I went down the rabbit gap so that you don’t need to, and the microneedling pen vs curler debate isn’t nearly value – it’s about whether or not you need cleaner wounds or tiny tears in your pores and skin. Spoiler alert: certainly one of these truly punctures your pores and skin at bizarre angles that may trigger extra injury than good.
On this article, I’m going to interrupt down every part you have to find out about these microneedling units – the science behind why pens work higher for most individuals, when rollers may truly be okay, and whether or not all these TikTok success tales are leaving out some fairly necessary particulars. We’ll discuss what truly works for zits scars, how deep these tiny needles actually need to go, and why your skincare supplier most likely cringes if you point out shopping for an affordable curler on-line. Prepared? Let’s get into it.
Microneedling Pen VS Curler: The Important Distinction
Each instruments mainly do the identical factor on paper: they poke little holes in your pores and skin to set off collagen manufacturing. Your physique freaks out (in a great way), kicks its pure therapeutic course of into overdrive, and growth – new collagen and elastin manufacturing occurs. However right here’s the place it will get attention-grabbing.
The derma curler is mainly like a tiny paint curler coated in needles. You roll it throughout the floor of the pores and skin, and people needles go out and in. Sounds easy sufficient, proper? Besides these needles don’t truly go straight down – they enter at an angle. Take into consideration dragging a rake by way of sand versus stamping straight down. One creates clear holes, the opposite? Not a lot.
The microneedling pen (or derma pen in case you’re fancy) makes use of a motorised gadget with disposable effective needles that stamp up and down in a vertical movement. The important thing phrase right here is vertical. These needles go straight in, straight out. Clear, exact, no dragging.
Research shows that curler needles enter the pores and skin at an angle because of the rolling movement, whereas pen needles penetrate vertically. A 2025 systematic evaluation discovered that automated pen units obtain penetration depths that intently match their needle lengths as a consequence of perpendicular entry, whereas handbook rollers with 3mm needles solely achieved precise penetration of about 1.5-2.0mm as a consequence of person strain variability and needle angulation.
Associated: Does Microneedling Help Or Hurt Skin?
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Why This Really Issues for Your Pores and skin Targets
Right here’s the take care of the entire angle factor, and why it’s not simply nerdy science stuff. Whenever you roll a derma curler throughout your face, the needles go out and in at angles as a result of… properly, it’s a rolling movement. Image it: the curler curves round, so the needles can’t go straight down. They’re hitting your pores and skin from the facet because the curler strikes. Analysis has discovered that handbook rollers don’t obtain constant penetration depths. A 2025 systematic review noted that rollers with 3mm needles only actually penetrated about 1.5-2.0mm deep as a consequence of person strain variability and needle angulation. It’s simply not as exact as you’d assume. Scientific practitioners have noticed that this angled entry could cause extra floor irritation in comparison with vertical penetration, although the analysis literature focuses totally on the consistency and depth accuracy points.
Microneedling pens? Totally different story. A 2017 study published in Aesthetic Surgery Journal tested automated pen devices on facial skin and found that needle penetrations closely matched their settings up to 1.0mm. The needles stamp straight down – in, out, achieved. Analysis on these automated units discovered they produce “minimal pores and skin trauma and faster restoration instances.” No sideways dragging, no guessing on depth. Research additionally famous that individuals utilizing automated pens reported much less ache and sooner therapeutic. Which, let’s be trustworthy, is fairly necessary after we’re speaking about stabbing your face a whole bunch of instances.
The Reality About Microneedling Depth
Right here’s the factor about derma rollers vs. microneedling pens: rollers are form of inconsistent. The precise depth you get is dependent upon how arduous you press, the angle, and your pores and skin kind. So yeah, that “2.0mm curler” won’t all the time penetrate precisely 2.0mm all over the place. Pens are extra exact. Set it to 0.5mm, and also you’re getting a constant 0.5mm penetration. This issues as a result of:
For at-home use (the protected zone):
- Most of your face: 0.25-0.5mm max
- That’s actually it – something deeper will get dangerous
For skilled therapies:
- Reasonable considerations: 0.5-1.5mm
- Deeper scarring: 1.5-2.5mm
- These depths want numbing, sterile gear, and somebody who is aware of what they’re doing
The large benefit of pens? They’re simpler to manage in tough spots like round your nostril or close to your eyes. Rollers are clunky and canopy extra space, which isn’t all the time what you need.
For those who’re doing this at house (which I do NOT advocate), keep shallow (underneath 0.5mm). If you wish to go deeper for severe stuff like zits scars, e-book knowledgeable.
Are There Any Facet Results?
Okay, actual speak: I’ve heard some horror tales about microneedling at house. Infections, bizarre scarring, breakouts that made issues worse. And actually? It is smart when you consider it.
Hygiene: Conventional rollers are designed for repeated use, which suggests you’re liable for sterilizing them between therapies. Even medical professionals admit it’s tough to maintain them really sterile. One flawed transfer and also you’re rolling micro organism again into these contemporary micro-wounds. Not superb. Microneedling pens usually use single-use needle cartridges. You open it, use it, toss it. Scientific research particularly famous that these disposable ideas are “distinctly extra sanitary” than reusable curler drums.
Approach: The automated needle movement in pens provides you method higher management and extra constant outcomes. Handbook derma rolling relies upon fully in your approach – an excessive amount of strain, flawed angle, uneven protection, and instantly you’ve received extra pores and skin injury than collagen induction.
Different widespread unintended effects (even if you do it proper):
- Your face will probably be crimson and indignant for a day or two
- Some swelling is regular
- May see tiny pinpoint bleeding or delicate bruising
- Your pores and skin will get tremendous delicate briefly
- Dryness and flaking because it heals
Most of this clears up in a couple of days. The intense stuff (infections, everlasting scarring, darkish spots) normally occurs when folks go too deep, skip the cleansing, or apply it to energetic breakouts.
When Rollers May Really Be Your Higher Selection
Look, I’m not saying rollers are completely ineffective. They do have some official makes use of:
- For those who’re simply trying to enhance product absorption in your common skincare routine, a 0.25mm to 0.5mm derma curler will help. Studies show they can increase how much your skincare actually gets into your skin. So in order for you your hyaluronic acid serum or different energetic elements to penetrate higher, that’s a strong possibility for house use.
- They’re additionally method cheaper upfront. An honest derma curler may cost a little $30-50, whereas skilled microneedling therapies can run $200-500 per session. If finances is your foremost concern and also you’re simply doing gentle upkeep, I get it.
- Some folks use them as upkeep between skilled therapies with a microneedling pen. Like, you get the actual deal at an aesthetic clinic each few months, then use a delicate curler at house to maintain issues going.
However right here’s the necessary notice: preserve these needles brief (0.5mm max) and be spiritual about sterilization. And perhaps, simply perhaps, test with a healthcare supplier first?
The Skilled Therapy Distinction
Whenever you go to a medical skilled for microneedling, they’re utilizing automated pen units as a substitute of handbook rollers. These motorized systems can reach depths up to 2.5mm and create thousands of microchannels in the skin with far more precision than you will get at house. A dermatologist or educated aesthetician can safely go deeper to essentially sort out particular areas the place you’ve received scarring or vital pores and skin points. That’s the depth the place you get actual collagen induction remedy taking place, the place the physique’s pure response kicks in and begins producing new collagen.
The distinction in outcomes is legit. Research shows that automated pen devices are “more efficient than manual rollers” at focusing on scar tissue and selling pores and skin transforming. Scientific trials on skilled microneedling discovered vital, measurable enhancements in zits scars – one study had over 80% of patients rating their results as “excellent” and 94% seeing no less than one grade of enchancment in scar severity. The pens additionally trigger fewer problems. Studies comparing different microneedling devices discovered that the angled punctures from rollers could cause “tram monitor” scarring, whereas automated pens create clear vertical channels that heal higher.
Making the Proper Selection For Your Particular Pores and skin Issues
Okay, so let’s get sensible. What do you have to truly do?
Contemplate skilled microneedling with a pen if:
- You’re coping with reasonable to extreme zits scars
- You need focused remedy for particular drawback areas (round your nostril, higher lip, these tough areas the place rollers can’t attain)
- You’re severe about addressing stretch marks or deep wrinkles
- Security and hygiene are prime priorities for you
- You don’t thoughts investing extra upfront for vital enchancment
A derma curler may work if:
- You’re simply boosting product absorption on your present skincare routine
- You need mild upkeep between skilled therapies
- Funds is your foremost constraint
- You’re comfy taking full duty for sterilization
- You’re solely treating bigger, flatter areas
Essential security notice: For at-home use, most consultants advocate staying at 0.5-1.0mm most. Depths above 1.0mm ought to solely be carried out by educated professionals as a consequence of elevated danger of scarring, an infection, and problems.
The Backside Line
Look, pens are simply higher: extra exact, safer, cleaner outcomes. They hit your pores and skin vertically with adjustable depths and sterile needles, whereas rollers are fastened and want obsessive cleansing most individuals aren’t doing. For those who’re truly attempting to repair zits scars or actual pores and skin points, go professional with a pen. Rollers? Wonderful for reinforcing your serum absorption or sustaining between therapies, however don’t idiot your self, that $30 Amazon curler isn’t what your dermatologist is utilizing.
